Review: Clockjack Oven, Soho

Fried chicken

After work one night in London, I took a short walk through Soho to try out a  ‘modern rotisserie restaurant’ on Denman Street; the rather oddly named Clockjack Oven.

The star dish on the Clockjack menu is perfectly cooked, free-range rotisserie chicken. The menu suggests 3 pieces for those with a regular appetite, and there are a range of sides on offer to beef up your meal if you fancy something a little more substantial. We opted for a side of chips, coleslaw, and some crispy chicken bites to accompany our signature pieces of chicken.

So how was it?

The chicken was perfectly cooked – juicy, tender and slightly salty. The coleslaw was fresh and flavorsome and didn’t rely on being slathered in mayo for flavour (my pet hate is runny, tasteless coleslaw – yuck). The chips were crispy on the outside and fluffy on the inside, served in a small ceramic ramekin but more than enough, especially for the £2.95 price tag. All of the dishes come with your choice of dipping sauce – we opted for Ranch and Caesar and both were tasty but very rich and creamy (sadly the chilli sauce had run out). But, the crowning glory of the whole meal had to be the crispy chicken bites. They taste sinfully good – salty, slightly crispy batter which yields and gives way to succulent bites of beautifully cooked free range chicken. And because they were free range, I didn’t feel my usual fried-food guilt afterwards – a major win!

Essentially, the team behind Clockjack Oven set out to do one thing, and do it well. They have certainly achieved this; if you love your chicken, you’ll love Clockjack’s simplicity. But the best part? We stuffed ourselves silly with delicious food, washed it down with a good bottle of house red, and still had change from £40.


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