Málaga has everything I tend to look for in a city break: sunshine, sea, ridiculously good food, local wine, plenty to explore on foot and enough going on that travelling alone should really be no big deal.
I spent a few days there before catching the train onwards to Seville, balancing work and sightseeing with rooftop-pool time, a dramatic hike and, naturally, a lot of eating and drinking.
Here’s everywhere I’d genuinely recommend from my trip.
Where to stay: Coeo House
I stayed at Coeo House Hernán Ruiz, right in the historic centre of Málaga.
It’s a hostel, but I booked a proper private room rather than a dorm, so it felt like a good middle ground between a conventional hotel and full hostel life. I had my own cosy space but could also use the shared lounge, café and the biggest draw – the rooftop pool.
It was clean, central and friendly. Staying somewhere with communal areas also felt much less isolating than being alone in a hotel room or Airbnb, without forcing me to socialise when I didn’t fancy it.
Breakfast was particularly good: coffee, croissants and a choice of something like made-to-order granola or stuff-on-toast, served until 1pm. A civilised arrangement for anyone who wishes to embrace the dinner and drinks at 11pm way of life in Malaga! I’d absolutely stay here again.
Embrace the cheap eats and local snacks
Málaga can be such an affordable city to eat in.
During the day, I mostly grazed. One of my favourite finds was ensalada malagueña, a traditional local potato salad generally made with oranges, olives and salt cod. Eating it beside the beach in the sunshine was just lush.
At Caminito del Rey, I managed post-hike chips and a glass of red wine for around €4. Absolutely glorious after hiking through a gorge in the rain (…there’s more on that hike below).
You should also try an espeto while you’re in Málaga. These are sardines threaded onto long skewers and cooked over firewood, traditionally in old boats filled with sand beside the beach. You’ll see them served at chiringuitos all along the coast, and they are one of the foods most closely associated with the city.
Drink vermouth in Málaga’s oldest wine bar
For something completely different from the polished rooftop bars around the centre, head to Antigua Casa de Guardia.
Dating back to the 19th century, it is Málaga’s oldest wine bar and remains wonderfully no-frills. Local sweet wines, sherries and vermouth are poured directly from enormous wooden barrels, while your bill is chalked onto the bar in front of you.
It is standing room only, busy, historic and packed with character. Have a vermouth, embrace the mild confusion and enjoy it.
Also look up: La Tranca, a lively bar only a few minutes’ walk from Coeo House. It is known for vermouth, tapas, vintage Spanish records covering the walls and the sort of atmosphere that just makes you feel alive.
Antigua Casa de Guardia.
Enjoy a Michelin Guide lunch at La Cosmo
My proper restaurant splurge was lunch at La Cosmo, a small restaurant in the historic centre which appears in the Michelin Guide.
I sat at the counter overlooking the open kitchen, which is always my preferred solo-dining position: you get dinner and a show, without sitting opposite an empty chair pretending to be fascinated by your phone.
The cooking was modern but still firmly rooted in Andalusia. My standout dish was sirloin steak with mousseline sauce, finished with a blowtorch directly in front of me. It was fit.
La Cosmo is not even remotely stuffy – exactly the kind of restaurant I look for when travelling: serious cooking, local influence and at-the-bar seating where eating alone doesn’t feel weird. Booking ahead is sensible – on short notice, I could only get a reservation at lunch.
Drink cava and people-watch at Casa Lola
For a very easy, very Málaga afternoon, find a seat at Casa Lola, order a glass of cava and settle in for some people-watching.
There are several Casa Lola locations dotted around the city, with some much busier than others, but they’re all lovely: lively, informal and perfect for a drink and a few tapas without needing to make a whole occasion of it.
Take in the sights – and use Málaga Cathedral as your North Star
Málaga Cathedral became a bit of a North Star while I was finding my way around the city. Officially called the Cathedral of the Incarnation, its enormous tower rises above the historic centre and is visible from all sorts of streets and rooftops. Whenever I was a bit lost, I could spot it, work out roughly where I was and steer myself back towards the centre.
It is worth seeing properly from ground level, but it also looks particularly beautiful from one of Málaga’s rooftop bars. Terraza Catedral Málaga, which sits directly opposite, has an excellent view of the cathedral and is a lovely place to stop for a drink as the light begins to change.
Watch the sunset from Mirador de Gibralfaro
For one of the best views across Málaga, walk up to the Mirador de Gibralfaro.
It overlooks the port, bullring and city, with the Mediterranean stretching out behind them. Go shortly before sunset and take your time on the climb – it’s steep enough to make you question some choices, particularly the amount of carbs and wine consumed at lunch.
The view is worth it. There is also the option of visiting Gibralfaro Castle and the Alcazaba while you’re in that part of the city, but simply walking up for sunset is a lovely (and free!) activity in itself.
Go for a morning run along the beachfront
One of my favourite things I did in Málaga cost absolutely nothing: an early-morning 5km run along the seafront.
Málaga has official running lanes along the Paseo Marítimo, beginning near La Farola lighthouse at La Malagueta and marked out by kilometre, so it is ridiculously easy to head out without having to plan a complicated route.
I ran east following the beachfront towards La Caleta, with the Mediterranean on one side and palm trees, cafés and the occasional athletic local overtaking me on the other. You can simply turn around when your watch hits 2.5km, giving you a straightforward, almost entirely flat 5km out-and-back.
Go early unless you actively enjoy running beneath the full force of the Spanish sun. It was warm, breezy and made me feel like I had at least earned every glass of wine and plate of tapas that followed.
La Malagueta is also close enough to Málaga’s historic centre to reach easily on foot, so you don’t need to be staying beside the beach to fit this into your trip.
Take a day trip to Caminito del Rey
My biggest excursion was Caminito del Rey, a 7.7km trail running through the Gaitanes Gorge, including raised walkways attached to its steep rock walls.
It looks far more terrifying in photographs than it feels while you’re actually walking it. The route is controlled, helmets are provided and the modern walkways feel secure, although it probably isn’t one for anyone with a serious fear of heights.
I booked an organised trip through GetYourGuide, as the trail is around an hour outside Málaga so a group tour works best. The excursion included transport from the city, which made the whole thing much easier as a solo traveller.
Naturally, I managed to book my dramatic gorge walk on the only day of torrential rain the region had seen in months. It was still spectacular, and made the aforementioned chips and red wine at the end taste even better.
Have a final-night glass at Anyway Wine Bar
A final shout-out goes to Anyway Wine Bar, a natural wine bar which was recommended to me. I visited on my last night and apparently enjoyed myself too much to take a single photograph. A lovely place to sit with a glass of something interesting, and mourn the fact that your Málaga trip is almost over.
Is Málaga good for a solo trip?
TOTALLY.
The historic centre is compact and easy to explore on foot, the beach is within walking distance, and sitting alone at a bar or restaurant never felt strange. Staying somewhere sociable helped, but I could still retreat to my private room whenever I wanted some peace.
Málaga is also easy to adapt to your mood. You can fill your days with museums, castles and excursions, or do almost nothing beyond walking (or running!) along the beach, eating sardines and drinking vermouth.
That combination of city, sea, culture and very good food makes it an excellent choice for a first solo city break. I’m already planning a return trip!
